Japan Recs
+ Creamy Sancho Soba and a lil tip for fibre intake
For as long as I can remember, I’ve always dreamt about visiting Japan. There was a point in my life where I was teaching myself kanji - my then best friend, Haruka, was Japanese, and shared with me parts of her culture that opened up my world. I thought by learning the language, I would understand more about her, but I let that go quickly. Instead I found another way, through food.
Ramune, furikake, grape candy and rice for breakfast were my introductions - the rice for breakfast with a little furikake on top was truly a pivotal moment in my culinary life. For so long everyone around me, including my household, had cereal for breakfast. Something I didn’t love, because I couldn’t stand the taste of milk. From then, I begged by parents to get me the japanese lunch option on tuesdays at school - the most perfect bentos, and it continued from there.
Last year, after talking about it for so long, the flights, hotels and trains were booked. My first Christmas, away from family, just my boyfriend and I. Our aim was to visit the 3 major tourist cities, with day trips dispersed between: Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka. Then Nikko, Kobe, Hiroshima? Obviously, almost nothing goes to plan, so we only made it to 3 cities in the end - we got stuck down with a horrific fever that lasted almost a week, just as we arrived into Kyoto. So in the end, Tokyo, Nikko and Kyoto were the stops. Even if, I had an incredible time. I loved every moment, and even got to see Haruka 20 years later. I left heart full, with excitement for the next time I’ll visit.
As always, pre-arrival I researched and pinned a bunch of places in japan that I wanted to visit. I went overboard (there’s 200+ pins) but I’ll share the map with you, as well as my absolute favourite places and things we did.
My favourite hotels:
Yuen Shinjuku: A lot of people say to not stay in shinjuku, but I personally didn’t mind it, it was quiet, but not far from the bustle. If I had more time in Tokyo, I would’ve moved around different areas, but Yuen was beautiful. It has it’s own rooftop onsen overlooking the city, with the mountains in the distance - the perfect relaxing jet lagged activity to do. The whole experience was seamless, and well worth the price.
KABIN Taka: After a rough couple of days in Kyoto, we were meant to leave to Osaka and went against. We continued our stay in Kyoto, left the old damp hotel and moved to Kabin - a breath of fresh air. Again, so seamless and a very large room!
Food:
Soba-no-Mi Yoshimura: Unreal soba in broth+ tempura set. The best broth I’ve ever had, and faultless prawn tempura. I can’t stand prawn tempura that have a phat tempura coating, i need the prawn to melt as soon as i bite through the lacy coating, they’ve done it perfectly. Probably my favourite meal of the trip.
Shinpachi Shokudo - It’s a chain, but it’s delivers. Set meal (teishoku) that consists of rice, miso soup, grilled fish and pickles. I had the sardine with an extra side of green beans (veg was scarce) and every morning after I wish I had it again.
Tonkatsu Maisen Aoyama - I can’t for the life of me understand how they make the tonkatsu. The breading is indescribably wispy, crispy, crunchy and the cabbage is shaved so thin. I would highly recommend eating the tonkatsu with the Maisen spice salt - that’s the only thing, the meat itself seems to be unseasoned?
Santenamataro - Small cabin overlooking the river. Spectacular views, a sweet sweet solo man whipping up comforting food. The udon soup with yuba ticked all the boxes.
Kyoto Yaoichi Honkan - A seriously amazing supermarket. Loads of fresh produce, ready made food, and everything you could ever think of (including homeware). The perfect place to grab souvenirs, have a browse and if you’re in yaki imo season, make sure to grab a roasted one (mind-blowing how good a roasted sweet potato can be).
Tasuki - Whatever the weather, I think it’s worth having a Kakigōri from here. The ice is shaved so incredibly fine, like fresh snow pow. I had such a hard time figuring out what flavour to get, but ended up with black sesame with warabi mochi. There was a v welcome surprise in the middle that made it even better. Would highly recommend sharing 1 between 2 (they’re huge).
Flip up!2 - My love for salt bread is because of this bakery - still warm, crispy, buttery, soft and flaky. It looks unassuming, but you need to try it. All the treats sounded incredible, with most flavours not being readily available in Europe. Try anything that has mentaiko, and don’t skip on curry pan.
Sushi Ginza Onodera Toryumon - a standing sushi place, with a great reputation and an even longer wait time. Arrive early, just before it opens, so you can add yourself into the virtual queue (you can’t reserve ahead). It’s casual, not stuffy and you can freely talk in the teeny restaurant. They also have a kaiten (sushi train) in Omotesando that I wish I went to, apparently the quality is just as good, and tbh I really regret not going to a sushi train.
My absolute highlight of the trip was the day trip to Nikko on Christmas day. Rain had just fallen, the soil still damp and the scent of pine needles permeated the air - if I could bottle the scent of Nikko, I would - I’ve never been somewhere that smells as good as it did. It was a welcome break to the hectic city, and lunch overlooking the river was bliss. I left wishing that you could get fresh yuba here and I left Japan with a some ground sancho because of this dish.
Sancho is a fragrant and tingly spice, with citrusy flavour. It tingles just like szechuan peppercorn does, but imparts even more fragrance. That meal inspired the recipe below:
Creamy Soba & Tingly Sancho Sprinkle
NOTES: Enoki can be substituted with any kind of mushrooms you can find or like. Make sure to thinly slice them and stir fry in some oil until browned before adding the broth into the pot.
SERVES: 2-3
PREP/COOK TIME:
INGREDIENTS
2 Tbsp Wakame
300g Silken Tofu
35g White Miso
200g Soba Noodles
550ml Dashi
200g Enoki Mushrooms, trimmed and quartered widthways. Optional
For the Sprinkle:
150g Edamame, defrosted
½ tsp Ground Sancho Pepper
1 Spring onions, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp Furikake
Soy Sauce, to taste
METHOD:
Add the wakame into a bowl and generously cover with cold water. Set aside for it to rehydrate.
Add the edamame into a food processor. Pulse until minced and transfer into a bowl. Stir the sancho pepper, spring onion, furikake into it. Season with soy sauce, set aside.
Empty out the food processor and give it a quick wash. Add the silken tofu and miso. Blend until smooth.
Place a pot of water on to boil. Once boiling, drop the soba noodles and cook according to package instructions. Drain and wash under cold water until less slimy.
Meanwhile, pour the tofu mixture into a pot, and pour in the dashi. Whisk together and place over low heat. Drain the wakame and add into the soup base with the enoki mushroom, gently warm up - don’t let it come to a boil. Taste and season with salt, if needed.
Stir the noodles into the hot soup base to reheat. Share between bowls and top with the sancho sprinkle.
This dish can also be eaten cold - simply cool down the broth after step 4 and serve with cold noodles.
P.s. If you do go to Japan, I would highly recommend being aware and mindful of your fibre/veg intake. I didn’t believe the masses of people that warned about it on socials, but it's by far the hardest place I’ve found to keep it up. If you’re not getting fibre, I would highly recommend stocking up on some fruit from the supermarkets, the convenience stores/pharmacies will have fibre jelly packs (have them!). 7/11 green smoothie was so delicious, but theres little to nothing in there, you have to top up.
Every chance you get where you can add on a side of veg, do it. We found it quite easy to have veg if we ate at an izakaya, but still, the portions are teeny. You will regret not keeping your fibre intake up.
Lovely long sentences my goat. Decent food recs too